![]() I have to go back in later (and you, if you do this) to fit Oznium license plate LED bolt/nut lights, facing down. Tighten using good hand feel, with tailgate inner skin removed for access, then re-install Using rivnut tool, install x2 M6 rivnuts into bottom larger 25/64 holes (the harbor freight tool comes with these)Īnd use your self-provided kit for the smaller holes, for temporary securing With all 4 marked, center punch, then begin drilling up to correct size in incrementsĬlean area and apply touch up paint to bare metal holes When set, carefully remove one set of magnets at a time to mark hole, keeping plate in place. Mopar Front Bumper Closeout Panel for 18-23 Jeep Wrangler JL & Gladiator JT with Steel. (note: follow coastal.tacoma on instagram, view his story on this and copy) Weld-In / Rivet-In Threaded Installation Plates are used for mounting the front shoulder harness of a seatbelt to the. Mopar Front Bumper Skid Plate for 18-23 Jeep Wrangler JL & Gladiator JT with Steel Bumper. Then, find a spot where you are satisfied, to place it, such as by looking visually, and measuring even distances. Take rare earth magnets, putting 1 at top of plate hole (each, total 4) and 2 stacked on underside. wrench to counterhold whatever nut you have for the top hardware ratchet/impact + T30 torx to remove tailgate inner skin for access measuring tools such as tape measure, calipers, ruler: to align plate harbor freight small pack of rare earth magnets, to align plate tube wire brush to help clean out freshly drilled hole compressed air to blow away shavings can use a can of keyboard cleaner center punch to mark/help start drill bit smaller drill bits to start enlarging holes rivnut installer Harbor Freight has a good one x2 M6 hardware kit to secure top of it, such as long enough bolts, nylon lock nuts, fender-style flat washers, c-ring style spring lock washers ![]() Relocate plate to higher mounting location for more ground clearance/to avoid hitting, bending, and destroying plate on rocks However, there are various types of rivet nuts from multiple manufacturers, so it’s important to understand some of the nuances. I'll give it a good test drive to make sure it holds and then rivet the home made panel back into place.For: high clearance rear bumper without place to put plate A rivet nut is a unique type of rivet, sometimes known as a blind rivet nut, a threaded insert, a rivnut, or a nutsert.It is tubular, internally threaded, and counterbored so it can be driven just like a blind rivet from one side. Here she is all bolted back together again. If not I'll just have to pull that part of the floor back up again. Threaded Rivets also known as blind rivet nuts or threaded inserts. These are the kind of rivets for locomotive, aircraft, and power-producing industries. Hopefully if I ever have to pull the mount the JB will keep the bolt in place and I won't have to dig into my trunk again. The stainless steel rivets are considerably hard, strong, and withstand deterioration. I decided to mount them with the bolt part facing downwards and put a bit of JB weld on the head of the bolt. ![]() I went to NAPA and got a couple grade 10.9 bolts and nuts with flanged ends. The plate the capture nut was welded to seems to still be in good shape so I decided to just bolt the mount back into the current metal. The damage seemed localized to to the captured nut so I vacuumed out the rail and hit up the top and bottom with some rust reform. I figured rust was the main culprit it got into the trunk and ate the floor away and then into the chassis rail. So I cut an access point into some of the remaining trunk floor. I pulled off the home made plate to reveal that I do in fact have access to the top of where the mount bolts to if I remove the floor. ![]() All better now it wasn't as hard as I had feared. ![]()
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